Variations on a Grey

  The only consistency in this deceptively static landscape is the cold. Wherever you walk and look frost adds a second layer of skin unto anything. But the weather in the Torres del Paine is as random as a slot-machine. Day to day you never know what you’re going to get. After our Patagonian Odyssey…

The Patagonia Diaries

    We left Puerto Natales and ahead of us was the immense road. It was as if we were traversing continents, but all we were doing was travelling from point A to point A.2. This Patagonia is like a solar system on the very fringes of our planet. Our driver, Luis, was a Santiago…

Things Aren’t What They Seem

  The 10th of July was my wife’s birthday. So we went out to eat in Santiago’s best restaurant. A universe apart from the other restaurants in Santiago. A black sheep and a blessing. Peumayen Ancestral Food is a forward-looking, minimalist restaurant doing magical things with very old ingredients used by indigenous peoples all over Chile….

A Tale of Two Santiagos

  A bridge. A few metro rides. A few blocks. That’s all. That’s all you need in Santiago to travel across the class divide. Despite Chile’s prosperous economy it suffers from one of the worst inequalities in the world.   Here is a quote from an article in Borgen magazine written in May 2017: “Its…

Santiago’s Heart of Darkness

  As we walked out of the sunlight and into the Mercado Central of Santiago something went wrong. It wasn’t supposed to. I had read a lot of good things about the Mercado. Both on my guide book, on many blogs, hell, even Anthony Bourdain came to eat here! My hopes couldn’t have been higher….

First Impressions of Santiago

  Uber is a good thing in Santiago. Uber is a very good thing in Santiago – simply because Chilean people are the friendliest people you’re likely to encounter in a whole hemisphere. We used Uber a lot in Santiago, especially at night. We learnt a lot from its cheerful, humble drivers. One of them,…

In Bed with the Miraculous

  The plane leaves the airport and climbs into the sky. Before long, you’re imitating lightning and coursing through the clouds – the wrong way. When you’re above the clouds, you’ve left the stratosphere of human imagination. This is the mysterious territory of the gods; beyond Olympus and the throne of God. You are their…

Chile Here We Come

Watch this space! The writer (myself) and the artist (my wife) will be heading off for our honeymoon adventure in Chile – the other side of the blue planet. We’ll be travelling down to Patagonia, the most remote landscape left on earth, as pristine and desolate as a Martian landscape. We’ll also be travelling to…

My Father’s Nine Lives

    Never before has an attempted suicide led to an obsession with life. As Alexander, the 13-year-old, waited at home whilst his comatose father was driven to hospital, he wondered what made his happy father turn on himself. A traitor to himself and us, a deserter, and deserters deserve to be – no, that…